Nestled in the crook of what is now Port Angeles Harbor, the village of Tse-whit-zen (pronounced ch-WHEET-son) flourished for over 2,700 years. The ancient village was one of many in the Klallam territory, which stretched from the Hoko River on the Strait of Juan de Fuca into the Hood Canal. The earliest confirmed settlement at the village site dates back to 750 B.C.--approximately the same time Rome was founded (Mapes 2005).
Buried for the last 100 years under layers of industrial fill, the ancient village was recently rediscovered during a construction project. As the story of Tse-whit-zen unfolded during the excavation, information unearthed confirmed many stories that had been passed down throughout the years in the Tribe, including the long history of occupation on the land at the heart of the harbor. However, Tse-whit-zen had some surprises in store as well.
More than 10,000 Klallam artifacts discovered at the site have challenged some misinformation and led to the rediscovery of tribal traditions that had been buried with Tse-whit-zen. For example, tribal members erroneously believed that their ancestors did not follow practices held by other Indian tribes, such as using traditional medicines or wearing red paint to invoke spiritual protection. Artifacts from Tse-whit-zen disproved this and demonstrated that these practices belong to the Klallam as well. For instance, many of the burial boxes that were unearthed were covered with red ochre dust to protect the spirit of the departed (Mapes 2005).
Knowledge of other historic practices had been lost throughout the ages as well. For instance, more than 800 carved stones were among the amazing collection of artifacts collected at the site. Delicate lines etched onto each stone tell a story; the carvings explain sacred teachings and may have been a way to pass teachings on to future generations. When the stones were initially discovered, knowledge of this practice had been lost and tribal members did not know what the stones were (Mapes 2005). These and many other artifacts are helping the Klallam people gain a fuller understanding of their ancestors and their life at Tse-whit-zen.
Even at this early stage in the analysis of the Tse-whit-zen artifacts, the rich history of the village, and the Klallam ancestors is clear. Tse-whit-zen has many stories left to tell us. The Elwha Klallam plan to build a museum and interpretive center near the site (Walker 2006).
Klallam diet consisted primarily of fish and shellfish, although hunting and gathering were also important parts of their culture. Tse-whit-zen was ideally situated for the Tribe. The village was located on the shores of a sheltered harbor where the Tribe could easily fish and harvest clams; their dried horse clams were well known and a valuable trading commodity. Additionally, the area behind the village was richly forested and gave them access to deer, elk, and other animals. Elk and deer provided the Tribe not only with food, but also with hides (to make garments, moccasins, bags, and drums) and with bones and antlers (to make into tools) (Mapes 2005).
Many of the more than 10,000 artifacts found at the site were finely crafted tools. The tools found encompass the wide array of activities that would have been part of the Klallam people's daily life: fishing, hunting, drying clams, cooking, making clothing, and woodworking. Many of the tools found served both artistic and functional roles. For instance, one intricately carved hair comb, made from bone, likely served as both a comb and a hair ornament (Mapes 2005). Decorative features added to many of the tools show the toolmakers' close ties with and appreciation for the nature that surrounded them and provided for their plentiful lifestyle.
As tribal members today look at the artifacts and consider the effort needed to craft these tools, they have been amazed at the resourcefulness and skill of their ancestors. For instance, a fragile spindle whorl was found among the artifacts. Used to spin mountain goat wool obtained through trading, the spindle was made from a whale vertebra (Mapes 2005). Analysis of the multitude of tools that were found will provide valuable insight into the daily lives of the tribal ancestors and they may hold a clue to the demise of Tse-whit-zen.
How did a village that had withstood 27 centuries disappear? Information uncovered from Tse-whit-zen may help answer that question. Some of the graves that were unearthed were mass graves where people appear to have been buried quickly. One likely cause for burials of this nature is an epidemic, such as smallpox, that would spread rapidly through the community leaving many dead and requiring quick burials to stop the spread of the disease.
Starting in the 1770s, smallpox epidemics (believed to have been brought by Spanish explorers) began decimating the tribal populations along the coast. Initial evidence from these graves (such as radiocarbon dating and foreign trade items buried with the bodies) seems to support this theory, although there are other possible explanations for these mass graves (for example, the mass burial may have been a common burial site for slaves and other low-status tribal members). However, the epidemic theory may be supported by other evidence as well. One archaeologist at the site, Lynn Larson, believes that the unusual abundance of well-preserved tools found at the site might indicate that people left tools behind as the village was abandoned quickly (Mapes 2005).
The Klallam tribal numbers declined swiftly in the post-European contact years. Before 1700, there were an estimated 3,200 tribe members. In the 1840s, their numbers had dropped to 1,485. By 1880, there were only 450 Klallams (Mapes 2005).
In the 1860s, the land that had been home to Tse-whit-zen for centuries was homesteaded by settlers and the Klallams moved across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Becher Bay. In the 1920s a saw mill was built there. The village site and cemetery were covered with six feet of fill dirt, further obscuring the site (Mapes 2005). Many tribal elders knew that the village of Tse-whit-zen and a cemetery existed, but the exact location of the village had been lost with the passing of time.
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